At the conclusion of three months in the Coachella Valley for winter season 2018/19, I topped it off with Palm Springs Modernism, when Palm Springs shows off its desert modern architecture and the village is flooded with Mid Century Modern (“MCM”) fans. This was my second Modernism, so I thought I’d share some tips and tricks with you about how to navigate the event.

Dubbed “Modernism Week,” in reality the event stretches over ten days each February. As stated on the Modernism Week website, “The mission of Modernism Week is to celebrate and foster appreciation of midcentury architecture and design, as well as contemporary thinking in these fields, by encouraging education, preservation and sustainable modern living as represented in the greater Palm Springs area.”

Plan In Advance, And Book Early

Modernism occurs in the middle of February and generally includes Valentines’s Day; next year it is scheduled for February 13-23, 2020. Around the end of October before Modernism (call or email for the exact date), the website lists available activities for the coming year. On or about November 1 (call or email for the exact date), tickets go on sale online.

Reserve Popular Events Right Away

Sure, you can roll into Palm Springs during Modernism and there will be tickets available for some things. But, a little advanced planning is required for the really good stuff.

The iconic Frey House II is a must-see, as it is rarely open for tours. (Photo: Modernism Weekly)

E. Stewart Williams’s 1947 masterpiece, Frank Sinatra’s Twin Palms, always sells out.

The double-decker bus tours also sell out, especially the ones guided by Charles Phoenix.

Depending upon your interests, research what is available, how popular and/or rare it is, and book accordingly.

Check Back In December And January

More events are added to the website in December and January, including many events free to the public, so be sure to check back.

Sign Up For Free Events

Speaking of free events, there are lectures and presentations around town which cost nothing to attend. However, they do you have a maximum capacity due to event space, so sign up for these events on the website too. Highlights for 2019 included a presentation on photographing Frank Lloyd Wright architecture, and an entire hour devoted to concrete screen block.

Admission to The Architecture and Design Center of the Palm Springs Art Museum is free during Modernism Week.

The Palm Springs Art Museum is free on second Sundays, and every Thursday evening.

The Palm Desert branch of the museum is free every day.

Flaunt Your Best Vintage Style

Wear ‘em if you got ‘em! While it is not necessary to attend events in vintage garb, many do take the opportunity to show off their best vintage, or nod-to-vintage, pieces. For me it might just be a pair of earrings, or a hat, or shoes. Handbags are also very popular.

If you have a whole vintage ensemble, people will go out of their way to tell you how much they appreciate it.

Go To Modernism Camp

Modernism Camp consists of temporary large tents set up immediately across from the Palm Springs Art Museum. It is a great central location to meet up with friends, do a little shopping, hear live music during nightly happy hours, grab a libation, and go to the restroom. Tour buses also depart from and return to Camp.

Be Choosy On Galas, Bashes, And Fundraisers

Evening cocktail and hors d’oeuvres events proliferate during Modernism and can run upwards of $100-$200 per person. My friends and I chose events based on houses we wanted to see and fundraisers to which we wanted to contribute, but we went overboard; I spent the equivalent of a month’s rent or fuel in my budget on admission tickets this year.

We were sorely disappointed in the fundraiser for the Palm Springs Modern Committee at the Lawrence Welk house; the house was practically emptied of furniture to make room for people, which gave it a college rave vibe. The buffet, meant to be an homage to Welks’s German and Minnesota heritage, was a dismal display of limp schnitzel, watery mac and cheese, and pretzels.

The atmosphere was greatly swankified at the Kirk Douglas house, a benefit for USModernist – a nonprofit educational open digital archive for the documentation, preservation, and promotion of residential Modernist architecture.

There were signature cocktails, passed hors d’oeuvres, live music, and goodie bags. What an improvement!

The worthiest cause went to the residents of Sunrise Lanai, who threw a pool party attended by the artist Shag, to raise money to restore the common areas of their MCM condo. The appetizers were straight from Costco, but the drinks in coconuts were fun and festive.

Choose Occupied Homes Over Rentals

The Kirk Douglas home is owned and occupied by the couple who founded Roots, the well-known clothing company in Canada.

The home was lovingly restored and maintained and lived in, contrasted with the Alan Ladd rental home, $1,000 per night, sleeps 10, which is furnished with pieces commensurate with a $100 per night value.

The William Holden home, also occupied by a couple (and their adorable dog), was a study in white and marble – beautiful to behold,

while the 1962 time capsule home designed by famed interior designer Arthur Elrod, now a rental, is being used to death with lots of deferred maintenance and lumpy furniture.

In general we found homes occupied by the owners to be of much higher quality than rentals. The only exception was Sinatra‘s Twin Palms, which is a rental, but an extremely pricey one.

Neighborhood Tours Provide More Bang For Your Buck

Individual homes cost around $50 for a 30-minute visit, which can add up quickly. We toured eight homes in a single morning on the Old Las Palmas “Peek Behind the Hedges” tour, which encompassed mid century gems and more contemporary homes, at a cost of $20 per house.

Some of the contemporary homes were not to my taste or liking, but I was over the moon to finally see the inside of Liberace‘s house.

Make Restaurant Reservations Well In Advance

Friends came to town from Wisconsin and Seattle for Modernism, and I made several brunch and dinner reservations. My advice is to book in early January, right after the new year. Reservations I booked in November and December were lost on a couple of occasions, I assume because of a turnover of the calendar. If you want to eat in the Coachella Valley’s best restaurants during Modernism, early reservations are the only way to go.

Don’t Be Penny Wise and Pound Foolish

There are a couple of events during Modernism that frankly chap my hide when it comes to admission prices.

The show at the convention center charges $20 to get in. That makes sense if you are a serious collector or you are building or furnishing a modern home, as the vendors offer high end furnishings, lighting, flooring, countertops, etc. When I first went to Modernism nine years ago, there was more vintage clothing and kitschy pieces. No more! Skip the 20 bucks and hit the vintage flea markets around town if that’s what you’re looking for.

Admission for the vintage trailer show this year was $40; I couldn’t even believe it. Years ago I was asked to participate in the show when I had my vintage canned ham trailer, FiFi. I know from that experience that the trailer owners receive no compensation, and they are not allowed to camp there. So, what the heck is the $40 for? There are many vintage trailer rallies around the country, where the public comes for Saturday open houses, for free. Go to those.

Check Out Other Events Coinciding With Modernism Week

There are all sorts of parties and art installations and events coinciding with Modernism, all around the Coachella Valley. For example, every other year Desert X installs free public art throughout the desert. Here are just a few of the pieces from DX19.

If MCM is a passion for you like it is for me, Palm Springs Modernism is to be experienced at least once in your life. If it’s not a bucket list thing for you, you may want to avoid downtown Palm Springs during those 10 days.