In An Asheville Bubble

After spending some time in the Smoky Mountains, my friend Kathy suggested Asheville, North Carolina for the scenery, a tour of the Biltmore Mansion, a community of arts and artists, and good restaurants. I was reluctant to spend time and tourist dollars in North Carolina because of House Bill 2, passed by the North Carolina General assembly in March 2016. Along with requiring that people use restrooms in accordance with the gender listed on their birth certificates, this state law overrode a nondiscrimination ordinance passed in Charlotte on behalf of lesbian, gay, bisexual, transgender, and queer/questioning people, and it also enacted a new state-wide policy of non-discrimination in public accommodations that did not include LGBTQ individuals. Any person who believed that he or she had been discriminated against due to sexuality in North Carolina had no recourse in North Carolina courts. In direct response to this law, many performers like Bruce Springsteen refused to tour in North Carolina. Federal funds are being withheld from state institutions. National sporting events are being relocated out of state. Recently the state of California passed a law that no government or state travel or meetings will be allowed or funded in North Carolina.

As I drove to Asheville, a song by Cole Porter kept running through my head: “Why Can’t You Behave?” Come on, North Carolina! It breaks my Constitution-loving heart to think that any group of persons is not afforded the same protections and rights as everyone else in the state of North Carolina. The lawyer in me is particularly offended. But, I chose not to boycott the state; when I started this journey over a year ago, I vowed to see the entire country – good, bad, indifferent, or ugly. And, there are plenty of people in North Carolina who do not agree with their lawmakers who will suffer economically if the boycott continues.

The town of Asheville is a welcoming place, and one would never really know about the controversy in Raleigh. Asheville is surrounded by the Blue Ridge Mountains, steeped in history, and historically a place to restore health and vitality. Southerners coexist with the multiply-pierced and tattooed and foodies and students and young and old and yes – LGBTQ folks as well. Biltmore, the Georgia Vanderbilt masterpiece built in the late 1800s, is grand.

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Some restaurants were fresh and innovative, although I must admit I preferred the food in Charleston (the exception – Nightbell by Chef Katie Button – go there!). The art deco buildings of the era are lovely, but not South Beach-y.

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First Baptist Church
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Jackson Building
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City Hall
The Grove Arcade
The Grove Arcade
The Grove Park Inn
The Grove Park Inn

Yet, the whole time I was there, I had this uneasy vibe. It’s like the feeling when something is stuck between your teeth – annoying and ever present in the mind. I did not find it reassuring, for example, to drive on parkways named for Evangelical Christians. I prefer a little more separation between church and state.

I don’t think I can return to North Carolina until this is all sorted out. By “sorted out,” I mean repeal – not little amendments here and there or the use of existing or newly-enacted federal laws to nullify this travesty. Ideas are like people; when they get old, they die. The times, they are a-changing. I’m looking forward to that. I’d like to see Charlotte someday.

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This Post Has 7 Comments

  1. Cheryl Kline

    Thank you, well said.
    Cheryl, Tennessee

  2. Christine Vergoglini

    Thank you for reminding me of the good & bad that’s everywhere. Those buildings are beautiful-too sad the state government is ugly.
    And thank you for your site-I love your pictures & comments on your travels.
    Traveling in a big motor home was one of my special dreams-sadly now I don’t believe it can happen. Due to a failed back surgery, I have multiple nerve damage & have to use hand controls to drive my car.
    Again, thank you!,
    Chrissi V

  3. Knott Kneeded

    You go girl!!!

  4. Leslie Sharpe

    I’m glad you decided to make the trip to Asheville. Most of us, and many of our fellow North Carolinians, can’t wait to vote out Gov. McCrory. There will be a lot of celebrating in this town when that happens, and when the discriminatory and hateful HB2 is repealed. Ann Patchett and Barbara Kingsolver were just in town to promote Ann’s latest book. She said she added Asheville to her book tour when she heard how the boycott was hurting our beloved local bookstore, Malaprops. The boycotts have helped bring needed attention to an unjust law, but they have also hurt a lot of innocent (and equality-loving) small business owners.

  5. Tammie Stiltner

    My husband inherited a big huge unfinished home started by his parents. Before they would completely finish one part, they would start another, thus making it impossible to sell. It’s quirky, it’s big, it sits on 5 acres, and it’s paid for because they didn’t believe in mortgages! So since our last name is Stiltner, I have affectionately dubbed it “Stiltmore Palace”. Thanks for posting the photo of the Biltmore, it gave me a giggle to see what I have compared it with!

  6. Curvyroads

    Asheville is the bright star in the state of NC, and I fervently hope that McCrory is voted out so that the open minded folk in that area are no longer harmed by his backward policies.

  7. Jeffrey

    Thank you, nice read.

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