When it’s darkness on the Delta
That’s the time my heart is light.
When it’s darkness on the Delta
Let me linger in the shelter of the night.
A year and a half ago, I visited the Mississippi Delta for the first time. It was a transformative experience. Now, the Delta is like Paris and London for me; whenever I’m nearby, I will stop for a visit. I routed myself through Clarksdale, Mississippi on the journey from The Kentucky Bourbon Trail to Houston, Texas, and stayed for a week. Having just spent eight days immersed in country music in Nashville, the Home of the Blues was a perfect palate cleanser.
The cotton was recently harvested, set in big bales in the fields like massive Twinkies and Sno-Balls.
It rained buckets for a few days, prompting me to dig out my rubber boots for dog walks through the Mississippi Mud; contrary to popular (song) belief, it is not a treat to put your feet in it. Things were pretty quiet in November. Some folks had moved away, some sobered up, a museum closed, but the more things change, the more they stay the same.
I had friends over to the rig for the first Egg Nog of the season,
and met others one night for dinner at Ramon’s, a locals’ seafood place where you can bring your own bottle.
(By the way, it is not the Spanish pronunciation. The owner’s name was Raymond. Thirty years ago he hired a sign painter who misspelled it, then claimed there just wasn’t enough room on the sign. It stayed. If that’s not a Delta story, I don’t know what it is.)
Loungin’ on the levee
Listenin’ to the nightingales way up above,
Laughter on the levee
No one’s heart is heavy
All God’s children got someone to love.
Sandy and Ed were in town, which they rarely are during Thanksgiving, and it was so lovely to hang out with them, with no agenda. One afternoon we drove the levee – a quintessentially Mississippi River pastime.
On another day Sandy and I went to Oxford, population 25,000, a town I had never visited but always wanted to.
It’s only 85 miles to Oxford from Clarksdale, but it feels like a world away. Oxford is home to the University of Mississippi, and William Faulkner. It is the former home of John Grisham. There is a charming town square complete with fabulous restaurants and an independent bookseller – so rare nowadays, especially in a small town.
The day before this trip I had turned Clarksdale upside down looking for a bottle of sweet vermouth, and there was none. Oxford felt so comparatively cosmopolitan.
We visited Faulkner’s home, Rowan Oak, and paid our respects at his grave.
We also stopped at The Lyceum on the Ole Miss campus – epicenter of turmoil and civil unrest when integration came to Mississippi and student James Meredith enrolled.
What a personal hero of mine.
It may have been Thanksgiving time, but there’s still music seven nights a week in Clarksdale. I caught up with Terry “Big T” Williams at Red’s,
(Serenaded! “Diamond in the back, sunroof top, diggin’ the scene with the gangsta lean, woo hoo-ooo …”)
Lucious Spiller At Bluesberry,
Mississippi Marshall At Hopson,
And The Stone Gas Blues Band at Ham Bone.
On my last night in town Ground Zero was hosting a benefit for the Sunflower Music Festival, and the fantastic lineup included Super Chikan,
Mark “Mule Man” Massey,
and Anthony “Big A” Sherrod.
A trip to Clarksdale is good for what ails ya. Maybe I’ll make it back for the Tennessee Williams Festival in October.
This Post Has 8 Comments
Enjoyed reading your post. Something else to put on our list. We love the Blues, and in Memphis a couple of years ago discovered Brook Benton and Dinah Washington. Merry Christmas to you both.
Ed and Sandy are old friends of mine. So nice to see them here! Hope to make it to Clarksville when I’m in the States again. Merry Christmas. Much happiness to you in the new year.
Good times in ole’ Miss! A very nice Xmas Eve read!
Merry Christmas & Happy New Year Lynn!! Would love to have you come visit!!
Sandy and Ed
We had a ball hangin with you Tammy!! Always engaging and always fun!! Such a treat that we were there at the same time – let’s do it AGAIN!! Love your home on wheels!
I just absolutely love your blog. It’s truly a gift for me to receive it. It is so Professionally done too. The photographs, the writing that paints a wonderful picture with words, the lovely historical places that you show reads like an exquisite novelette. I am so glad you are feeling better and are able to travel. I have learned so much from your travels. You have a true gift that makes me dream of getting out there one day to see what I am missing. Which is quite a lot I know. I pray for you and your health and continued peace and happiness. I want you to be strong and healthy to travel and continue your blog. Thank you so much. Happy Holidays to you too. 🌟From San Diego…. 🎆
Andrea, I awoke to your comment on Christmas morning, and what a lovely gift it made! Thank you so much for reading and commenting.
Tammy – As we sit here in the dark, dark, rainy, rainy PNW I re-read this blog and photos – thanks for making me smile to start another rainy day!!! Much love! Sandy